on surfing

i've realized that one of the things that brings me joy and a greater appreciation for God is surfing. this summer, as i've had alot more time on my hands than i had planned, surfing has been something i've turned to to keep me busy.

something just feels right about diving into the surf on my board and feeling the shock of the water as it washes over me. the salt mixes with the air as the water sprays over the nose. it's one of the best feelings to get a face-full of water as you paddle through the first waves. it wakes me up and i feel more alive.

then comes the wait: watching the horizon for sign of a swell that will eventually turn into a wave. the ocean extends as far as the eye can see and meets the sky. most mornings, it's overcast so the water has a deep gray color to it. white crests form as a wave moves towards the beach and there is movement in the water as other surfers shift to get in position.

i never seem to get tired of it. the rides may be short and the waves form-less, but i keep coming back, hoping to find a break that is calling to be ridden. i can't wait to go out again.
more on this to come.